From Lapels to Cuffs: How to Choose the Right Details for Every Occasion
.Jacket Lapels: The Three Key Styles
1. The Shawl Lapel
What it is: A smooth, rounded edge that runs from the collar down to the button closure, without a break or point.
Best for: Black tie, evening wear, and formal occasions.
Why choose it: The shawl lapel has an old-world elegance. It’s most commonly seen on tuxedos and dinner jackets, often in satin or grosgrain for a touch of sheen. Its rounded shape softens the look, making it a favourite for slim-fitting or single-breasted jackets at formal events.
Style note: Avoid pairing a shawl lapel with business wear — its formality feels out of place in a corporate environment.
2. The Notch Lapel
What it is: The most common lapel style, featuring a small “cut-out” or notch where the lapel meets the collar.
Best for: Business suits, everyday tailoring, semi-formal occasions.
Why choose it: The notch lapel is versatile and understated. It works with almost every suit style and is a safe choice for anyone looking for a multi-purpose jacket.
Style note: Keep the width of the notch proportional to your build. Narrow notches flatter slimmer frames; broader notches suit larger builds and double-breasted styles.
3. The Peak Lapel
What it is: A lapel with pointed edges that angle upwards towards the shoulders.
Best for: Power dressing, weddings, high-profile events.
Why choose it: The peak lapel commands attention. Its sharp upward points create a strong visual line, broadening the shoulders and slimming the waist. It’s a confident, slightly bold choice that signals sophistication.
Style note: Peak lapels look particularly striking on double-breasted suits, but can also elevate a single-breasted jacket.
How to Choose Your Lapel for the Occasion
Weddings & Black Tie: Shawl or peak lapels, with a preference for satin finish on tuxedos.
Business Settings: Notch lapels for everyday wear; peak lapels for boardroom impact.
Smart Casual: A slimmer notch lapel on an unstructured blazer works well.
Remember: proportion is key. Your lapel should suit both your frame and the jacket’s purpose.
Shirt Cuffs: The Five Popular Styles
1. The French Cuff
What it is: A double-length cuff folded back and fastened with cufflinks rather than buttons.
Best for: Black tie, weddings, formal business settings.
Why choose it: French cuffs exude elegance and refinement. They’re perfect when you want to add a personal flourish with cufflinks — whether classic silver, engraved initials, or something playful for a personal touch.
Style note: Always pair French cuffs with a well-fitted jacket. They’re a statement and should look deliberate, not like an afterthought.
2. The Cutaway Cuff (also called mitered or angled)
What it is: A cuff with an angled edge, creating a sharp diagonal line rather than a square finish.
Best for: Contemporary office wear, cocktail attire.
Why choose it: The cutaway cuff adds subtle modernity without being overly formal. It works particularly well for slim-fit shirts and under tailored jackets with a narrow sleeve opening.
Style note: The cutaway cuff can still take cufflinks if designed with double buttonholes, offering flexibility.
3. The Barrel Cuff
What it is: The most common cuff, fastened with one or two buttons and a straight edge.
Best for: Everyday wear, business casual, less formal events.
Why choose it: It’s simple, comfortable, and versatile. The barrel cuff suits almost every shirt style, making it a reliable choice for those building a core wardrobe.
Style note: For a touch of flair, opt for a two-button barrel cuff with contrasting stitching.
4. The Convertible Cuff
What it is: A hybrid style that has buttons for everyday wear but also double buttonholes so it can be worn with cufflinks.
Best for: Travellers, versatile wardrobes, and anyone who likes flexibility between casual and formal.
Why choose it: It’s two cuffs in one — wear it buttoned for the office, then switch to cufflinks for a dinner event without changing shirts.
Style note: Works well for people who attend both formal and casual events regularly but don’t want to own separate shirts for each.
5. The Rounded Cuff (also called club cuff)
What it is: A cuff with curved edges instead of sharp corners, typically fastened with buttons.
Best for: A softer, more vintage-inspired look, semi-formal events, or adding personality to business wear.
Why choose it: The rounded edges have an old-world charm and can make a shirt feel more approachable, especially in softer fabrics or pastel colours.
Style note: Often seen in heritage-inspired menswear and pairs beautifully with textured jackets or patterned ties.
Matching Lapels & Cuffs for Different Scenarios
Black Tie Gala or Formal Wedding
Jacket: Shawl lapel or peak lapel tuxedo in black or midnight blue.
Shirt: French cuffs with understated, elegant cufflinks.
Why: Both lapel and cuff choices reflect the height of formality, ensuring you meet dress code while standing out with refined detail.
Corporate Boardroom
Jacket: Peak lapel for authority, or notch lapel for understated professionalism.
Shirt: French cuffs if you want a power statement; barrel cuffs for daily wear.
Why: Lapel choice communicates leadership, cuff choice adds either confidence (French) or approachability (barrel).
Smart Casual Event
Jacket: Slim notch lapel on a textured blazer.
Shirt: Barrel cuffs, perhaps with a patterned shirt for personality.
Why: The look stays polished but approachable, balancing structure with ease.
Fashion-Forward Cocktail Party
Jacket: Peak lapel in an unconventional colour or fabric.
Shirt: Cutaway cuff for modern sharpness.
Why: This pairing feels intentional and fresh without being too formal.
Pro Tips for Choosing Right — Every Time
Consider the occasion first. Let formality dictate your lapel and cuff before personal taste.
Match the proportion to your build. Slim lapels and narrow cuffs flatter smaller frames; broader styles suit larger builds.
Think about longevity. If you’re investing in a suit or shirt for years of wear, choose classic shapes over extreme trends.
Don’t mix extremes. A casual barrel cuff under a peak lapel tuxedo will look mismatched; a French cuff under an unstructured summer blazer feels overdressed.
Let your accessories lead. If you love cufflinks, French cuffs are a natural choice. If you want to showcase a bold tie or lapel pin, keep the cuff simple.
Why Details Matter in Tailoring
Great tailoring is about more than just fit. It’s about creating harmony between every element — lapel, cuff, fabric, buttons, stitching — so the whole look feels cohesive. The right lapel frames your face and complements your build. The right cuff draws the eye to your hands and accessories, subtly reinforcing your style personality.
When you get both right, you’re not just wearing a suit or shirt — you’re wearing yourself, perfectly expressed in cloth and stitch.
Our Expertise
At our studio, we guide clients through these choices during fittings, making recommendations based on body type, personal style, and the event at hand. Whether you’re commissioning a made-to-measure suit, altering a ready-to-wear jacket, or selecting shirts for a key occasion, we ensure every detail — down to the last stitch — works in your favour.
Because when it comes to style, it’s the smallest choices that make the biggest impression.
Contact our studio to chat about your next Bespoke creation on 0450 726 559 or email us
